How to Build a Decorative Planter Box

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The construction of this planter box is quite simple. It has a style that suits your farmhouse or the village you live in. In terms of durability, the screws we will use will overcome this.

Building a planter box can be both fun and budget-friendly. Read on for the plans and steps for how to make a planter box.

You will planter box plans, dimensions, details, and instructions here. 

Review them carefully so you will be ready when it’s time to cut and organize the pieces.

The planter box building process starts with side and front supports. 

Hardwood or pressure-treated boards are a popular choice, as are cedar and cypress.

Pressure-treated timber is easy to stain, durable and budget-friendly. 

1) Starts by checking the list of tools to use for your DIY planter box. After collecting the missing tools, focus on purchasing materials. 

2) Measure and cut all the pieces and prepare them. Measure the length twice before doing your cuts. Make sure to label each one. 

Tips: Drill pilot holes in wood pieces using a power drill for easy connections. 

3) Follow the Project details for assembling the wood pieces. 

4) We will use 1 1/2" 2 1/2" and 4 1/2" Screws. 

5) You will secure use wood glue to the contact surface. 

6) Fill any gaps and frame nail holes with wood putty. 

7) Sand the entire Project with 150-220 grit or more sandpaper and dust pf before painting or staining your finished Project

Cut List:

A1 - 12 – 2 x 4 x 30 1/4″ front support 30'3''

B1 - 12 – 2 x 4 x 29 1/2″ side support 29'6''

C1 - 7 – 1 x 4 x 26 3/4″ middle support part of the floor 15' 7 1/4''

Total: 2x4x59'9'' , 1x4x15' 7 1/4''

List of tools:

Stain/preferred paint coating:

  1. Water-Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
  2. Water-Based Wood Stain mixed: Desert Sand and Pure White
  3. Water-Based polyacrylic

A chop/miter saw works best for making cuts, but a circular saw, jig saw, or even a hand saw will work to make the cuts.

You can also use a router or sander to put decorative edges on your planter box, but it is not necessary to build the completed planter box.

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Wood painting information:

First, sand the wood with 150 grit or higher sandpaper to achieve a smooth, even surface before staining.

Thoroughly remove all dust from the wood by using a vacuum with a hose attachment, then wipe clean with a damp cloth.

Then wiping clean with a damp cloth. First, apply Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to the boards.

Apply the Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and allow it to penetrate the wood for just 1-5 minutes, then remove excess conditioner that has not soaked into the wood with a clean rag Apply Water Based Wood Stain to all of the wood. 

You can the color Desert Sand mixed and the color Pure White mixed. 

What I love about the water-based stain is:

1) how easy clean-up is… 

2) how little odor the stain has… 

3) the colors. 

You can get everything from bold, colorful shades to neutral wood tones to light, creamy cottage and ocean-inspired stains.

Apply the stain using a foam brush, and allow it to penetrate the wood no longer than 3 minutes.

It is very fast-drying, so work in small sections! Wipe the wood with a clean cloth to remove any stain that has not soaked into the wood. 

Allow the stain to dry 24 hours before applying a protective finish.

Tip: It will be easier to wear a pair of gloves while wiping the excess stain to keep our hands clean than to wash our hands. 

After the stain has dried 24 hours, apply a thin coat of Water Based Polycrylic (I used the clear matte finish) using a brush.

Allow to dry at least 2 hours, then sand with a very fine 220 grit sandpaper and remove all dust.

Apply a second and third coat, drying and sanding in between each layer. 

The wood will need 3 hours to dry before handling and 24 hours before it will be fully cured.

If you've ever used polyurethane on top of white paint and seen the yellow stains that appeared once the poly dried, you know how important it is to make sure you're using the right topcoat. 

* If you wish, you can create different beautiful results with your own color choices. I prefer to use these colors mostly for coffee tables. But beautiful colors will look good anywhere.

General Dimensions

Side View:
Front View:
Top View:
Bottom View:

Assembly Process:

Step 1: 

First, we measure and mark a distance of 3 1/4'' from the bottom right and left of the A1 piece to the inside.

Then we measure and mark the middle part from the bottom up. This will be 1 3/4''. Then we cut it from the marked places as in the picture below.

We repeat this process for all parts A. We cut and prepare 12 pieces of A1 in total.

Step 2: 

Now we cut our B1 part in the same dimensions as in the first process. The only difference is that the measurement and cutting operations are in the upper right and upper left. Again, we measure and cut 12 pieces of B pieces in the same way and prepare them.

Step 3: 

Now we clamp and paste the A1 piece to the upper right part of the B1 piece as in the picture. There will be a distance of 1 3/4'' at the end of both pieces.

After the wood glue dries, we screw it from the upper right side and the inner left side of the A1 piece as in the picture. We use 2 1/2" screws in all of these screwings.

Step 4: 

Now we glue and screw the second piece A1 to the other end of piece B1 in the same way.

Step 5: 

Now, we glue and screw the second B1 piece between the A pieces as in the first process.

Step 6: 

Now we place and glue the B3 and B4 pieces so that they are aligned with the B pieces at the bottom. There will be 1 3/4'' distance at the ends.

Here you can screw in if you find enough space from the ends of the B parts.

I prefer screwing from the top inside of the B parts. We will use 4 1/2'' screws in these screwing parts.

Step 7: 

Now we clamp and glue the A3 and A4 parts to the B3 and B4 parts. At the ends of this and all subsequent A and B pieces, a distance of 1 3/4'' will be outside.

Since the A parts will be clamped to the B parts, you can screw the A parts down from the tops to the B parts to make them more robust.

Step 8: 

Now, as in the previous step, we glue the B5 and B6 parts in line with the B part at the bottom and screw them from the top.

Then we clamp and glue the A5 and A6 parts to the B parts. After drying, we screw it as in the picture.

Step 9: 

At this stage, as in the previous stage, we first glue and screw the B parts. Then we glue the A parts to the B parts and clamp them.

Then we screw it from the top to make it stronger. In this way, we stick B and A parts in 6 layers respectively, clamp and screw them.

Step 10: 

Now we stick and screw the bottom C1 boards as shown in the picture according to your intended use of the planter box.

The panels on the right and left will be measured and placed at a distance of 3/4'' inward. Here we use 1 1/2" screws.

Step 11: 

Then we glue and screw the other C1 sub-panels adjacent to each other.

Completed our Decorative Planter Box project!

This garden planter box stands up strong to the harsh winds and storms that Mother Nature sends calling through the spring, summer, and fall.

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